Popular Culture: Evolution of Fashion Styles

Catalina Womens Swimming Fashion, USA, 1950

Catalina Womens Swimming Fashion, USA, 1950

12 in. x 16 in.

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Fashion is how we express our identitites. Fashion not only highlights the social history and the needs of women, but also the overall cultural aesthetic of the various periods. The evolution of fashion dates back to several hundred years and as our attitude and culture change, fashion comes along with it.

In the 1950s reconstruction in Europe and the boom brought about by the Korean war boosted the fashion industries of the capitalist world. There exists a great evolution through the fashion of the 40s to the 50s, and it involves different ideologies, dress trends, shoes and hairstyles.

Cheap, mass-produced clothes that closely followed prevailing fashions were more widely available than ever before. For the first time in this early postwar period all classes had access to clothes in up-to-date styles. Until the 1930s the poor and the old had tended to wear clothes in styles long out of fashion, either from choice or by necessity, but now even they were incorporated into the language of style.

The 50s were the shirtwaist era, when the rock and roll causes a change in the fashion. This era was represented perfectly at Grease movie, when we can see the different fashions between the social groups. The women used crinolines and shirtwaists. Men used jackets and blue jeans, with grease in their hair. And women used the hair over the shoulders.

The huge success of the New Look, and the stringent attempts of Dior and his contemporaries to lirnit the pirating of their fashion designs and take advantage of worldwide licensed copying and the adaptation of their creations for the mass market, led to an awareness of the news value of fashion. The evolution of styles was now dramatized so that each season was to have its own “look” or “line”. it had been possible to present the New Look as a revolution because of the hiatus of the war; henceforward dress designers sought to repeat this miracle in the molding of popular taste.

In the 1950s every season’s new line was frontpage news and most newsworthy of all was the length of the hemline. The height of the hemline was alýnost bound to be an easily changed variant of fashion when neither full-Iength skirts nor trousers were a serious option. Couturiers emphasized variations in eut and length and sought to encourage the association of fashion with exelusivity.

Parisian fashion in particular was promoted on the basis that it sold to the French aristocracy, to international royalty (women such as Queen Soraya of Iran) and pseudo-royalty Jackie Kennedy was a great fan of Pierre Cardin and Chanel). These clients were even more prestigious than internationally famous actresses and film stars, though they too used to publicize their favored couturiers- Audrey Hepburn, for example, whose sIender figure and waif-like face fixed the gamine look for the decade, was often dressed by Givenchy. Her appearance in his clothes in popular movies such as Funny Face (1957) gave them even more powerful publicity than they received from Vogue and other magazines.

The 60s were the time of a revolution. The hippie clothes, psychedelic ones, and groovy elements were fashionable. The hippies used a natural or ethnic style, love-ins, flowers, and free-flowing hairstyles.

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Fashion and Hollywood Glamor

Arrow Dress Shirts and Collars

Arrow Dress Shirts and Collars
Joseph Christian Leyendecker
18 in. x 24 in.

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Significant historical changes in the status of movie stars have paralleled decisive technological, economic, and social changes that have affected the American film industry as a whole, such as the coming of sound, the Great Depression, and the rise and fall of movie attendance. The contractual terms and salaries for movie stars have also been affected by the same factors.

In the highly competitive and expanding market that existed between 1910 and 1920, the most popular silent-movie stars eventually obtained contractual terms that equalled and possibly exceeded their individual contributions to box-office success, and some of them also became involved in film production themselves, although the development of sound and its demand for experienced stage and radio performers ended the careers of many silent film stars.

Those working during the early 1930s, when movie attendance declined and industry power was concentrated in the hands of a few studios, were placed in a poor bargaining position, and studios began exercising near autocratic control over the star system.

The fashion image most associated with the 1930s – a decade of Depression, unemployment, fascism and the approach of war – is probably the glamorous Hollywood pale satin evening gown, a bias-cut creation slithering to the floor, lowbacked and clinging to the thighs.

This ambiguous garment did not look very different from a nightdress, and managed to appear both sultry and languid – chic and upper-class in the pages of Vogue or trampishly sexual when worn by Jean Harlow.

The revolution wrought by sound had given rise to a new galaxy of stars and introduced new types of pictures. Many of the familiar figures of the movie world continued in the talkies their success in silent films; a few staged remarkable come-backs after a period of eclipse while they adapted themselves to an unfamiliar technique. Actors and actresses of the legitimate stage, who had often scorned the pantomime of the silent film, made their hopeful way to California in droves, and a good many of them remained. Singers and dancers, for whom the talkies represented an entirely new opportunity, were suddenly in great demand. In a whirl of expanding energy, Hollywood exploited all the means at its disposal to reach the still broader market for popular entertainment now opening up.

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Biggest summer movie flips

Biggest summer movie flips

Even Julia Roberts and Tom Hanks couldn’t make audiences care about “Larry Crowne.”

The summer box office has been nearly strong enough to pull Hollywood out of its slump, but there were some notable misses that are sure to haunt development and marketing executives well into winter.

Cowboys & Aliens

Directed by Jon Favreau and featuring James Bond star Daniel Craig, the $163 million-budgeted movie mixed two genres: Westerns and alien pics. Unfortunately, audiences didn’t embrace the result. From Universal and DreamWorks, Cowboys & Aliens has cumed only $129 million to date, including $93.5 million domestically and $35.5 million overseas (where it still has some territories yet to open).

Larry Crowne

Directed by and starring Tom Hanks (opposite Julia Roberts), Larry Crowne was intended to please adult audiences put off by summer popcorn fare. But the Universal film, fully financed by Vendome Films, topped out at $52.4 million worldwide, including only $35.6 million domestically.

Green Lantern

The Ryan Reynolds superhero pic cost a pricey $200 million to produce, yet has only earned $206.1 million worldwide. In North America, the Warner Bros. film topped out at $116 million, while it’s cumed $90.1 million to date at the international box office. Like Cowboys, it hasn’t fully rolled out overseas.

Priest

The Paul Bettany action pic, based on the Korean graphic novel, was the most expensive movie ever produced by Sony’s Screen Gems, sporting a price tag north of $60 million. It’s only earned $76.6 million worldwide, including $29.1 million in North America, and $47.4 million offshore.

The Change-Up

The Jason Bateman-Ryan Reynolds pic has earned only $34.5 million to date domestically, ending a dazzling winning streak for R-rated comedies. Universal hasn’t yet begun rolling out the movie in major foreign territories.

Conan the Barbarian

The reboot cost north of $70 million to make but is off to a poor start, grossing only $16.6 million domestically in its first 10 days, and $5.5 million in its initial foreign run. The film was fully financed by NuImage/Millennium, and is being distributed by Lionsgate.

Fright Night

The vampire pic isn’t proving to have much bite, earning $14.3 million in its first 10 days (the movie was released Aug. 19). The Colin Farrell-Anton Yelchin starrer won’t necessarily be a big financial hit, since it cost $30 million to make, but DreamWorks and Disney had higher hopes.

Snow Flower and the Secret Fan

Despite the specialty film’s pedigree — it’s based on Lisa See’s best-selling book and was produced by Wendi Murdoch (wife of Rupert Murdoch) and Florence Sloan (wife of former MGM chairman and chief executive Harry Sloan) — it has failed to woo audiences, grossing only $1.3 million in its limited domestic run. The film, in Mandarin and English, has fared better in China, where it’s earned north of $5 million.

View Summer Movies Guide at Movie Database >>

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Best deals for back-to-school jeans

Best deals for back-to-school jeans

Denim is one of the most important categories for back to school, constituting as much as 25% of sales for some retailers.

As cotton prices soared earlier in the year, retailers were left scrambling on how they would handle the pricier fiber this fall. For denim in particular, in which cotton makes up about 55% of the total cost, this is an even bigger issue for the all-important back-to-school season.

According to Brean Murray analyst Eric Beder, five retailers he covers raised denim prices to offset higher cotton costs, while four cut prices this back-to-school season. With price at the forefront of shoppers’ minds, most retailers are offering compelling promotions to distract from the increase in original prices.

Here’s a look at how retailers are handling denim prices and where to find the deepest promotions.

Abercrombie & Fitch

Abercrombie & Fitch is dominating denim discounts for back-to-school season, pressuring rivals like American Eagle Outfitters and Aeropostale.

Abercrombie is offering 50% off all denim (excluding flagship exclusive styles) through Aug. 30. This time last year, the teen retailer offered 40% off its denim selection.

While Abercrombie’s denim discounts appear deeper than last year, Needham analyst Christine Chen noted that the company has been charging higher prices. This year jeans range in price from $39 to $44 price range compared to the average $39 last year.

“The re-launched denim has a higher lycra content, which is not only a better fit, but now uses less cotton,” Chen noted.

The average price at the company’s Hollister stores is $24.75, 17% less than last year, Beder said.

American Eagle Outfitters

The teen retailer kicked off the back-to-school season with a 40% clearance, deeper than last year’s 30% discount.

But for the most part, American Eagle’s denim price points are consistent with last year, with Beder finding the average price at about $37.47 (before this week’s discount).

“While the denim assortment is once again the most comprehensive and compelling in the teen space, it does not seem to be generating as much interest as Abercrombie & Fitch’s 50% off denim in most locations, given that price points are now similar to Abercrombie and higher than Hollister,” Chen noted.

Aeropostale

Aeropostale is featuring a 50%-off denim promotion, with men’s original boot cut jeans now $22.25 from $44.50 and girl’s jeggings $23.25 from $46.50.

Earlier in the month, Aeropostale was offering $10 off denim, but this promotion actually increased the price of denim, according to Chen. After the promo, denim was between $24 to $28 for men’s and $22 to $26 for women’s, compared with $20 last year.

“Aeropostale’s back-to-school assortment is wear now, and is more edited, with fewer colors and a return to classic preppy styles that are brighter and more appropriate for the younger customer,” Chen noted. “Denim does not seem to be emphasized in this initial floorset, which given the heatwave, could be beneficial as the customer is still looking for shorts and wear-now apparel.”

Urban Outfitters

Urban Outfitters has the most expensive jeans at $63.33, an average unit retail increase of 3.8% from last year, according to Beder.

“The lack of uniqueness will make it much harder to justify increased price points in the eyes of the money-tight consumer given their various options,” Beder noted.
Pacific Sunwear of California

Pacific Sunwear of California is offering buy-one, get-one free denim on select styles as well as a buy-two, get-40%-off promotion on other denim merchandise.

The skate-and-surf-inspired retailer is featuring the BOGO event on select Bullhead Black and men’s Bullhead styles. Women’s Bullhead black leggings and other styles are buy two, get 40% off each pair.

These discounts are a direct result of PacSun being forced to raise original prices on denim this back-to-school season due to higher cotton costs. Beder noted that PacSun’s average unit retail price is $38.36, a 39.5% surge from last year.

Wet Seal

Wet Seal has seen the biggest price increase in denim this year, up a whopping 113.9% from back-to-school 2010, according to Beder.

“We believe they have jumped on the bandwagon with the others who have raised prices and are going to take advantage while they rightfully protect their margins,” Beder wrote in a note.

Wet Seal’s average unit retail price is $32.08, higher than Aeropostale, Old Navy and Hollister. But Wet Seal is offering discounts on these higher prices. The fast-fashion player is featuring its “Rock Blues” promotion on its Web site, with five fits and 12 washes on sale for $19.50.

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Focusing on San Francisco

The Lindbergh Line, San Francisco, California

The Lindbergh Line, San Francisco, California
Kerne Erickson
9 in. x 13 in.

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Take in the sights… and take home your best pictures ever. Go ahead, leave your heart. You can’t help leaving a piece of it, anyway. It will get lost in the crowded, bustling streets of Chinatown, the picturesque Victorian “painted ladies,” the vast green expanse of Golden Gate Park.

San Francisco is a photographer’s paradise, with its endless array of impossible-seeming angles, ever-changing show of light and shadow and treasure trove of old and new architecture. It is also a city that will make a photographer out of the uninitiated – one simply must capture a part of San Francisco.

Reduce the country’s most beautiful city to a mere few images? Impossible. But for starters, here are a few favorite shots from photographer J’vIark E. Gibson-who’s lucky enough to make a living at it. Gibson has been using Canon equipment for 22 years. “It’s performed extremely well for me-I’ve never been tempted to switch,” notes Gibson.

Cable Cars… Poetry in Motion

They are the only National Historic Landmarks that move-and perhaps the single most recognizable icon of the City by the Bay. The cable car system represents the charming contradictions of San Francisco at its best: functional frivolity, 120-year-old remnants of the old world stubbornly and happily bustling along with the new. Adventurers can still ride along on the outside-just hold on tight around those curvy streets and plunging hillsides.

California Street, at the crest of Nob Hill

Gibson explains, “The perspective is from the top of Nob Hill, looking downtown. From here, you can get a great front end view, because tbe cable car runs up and down California. And, if you’re at tbe right cross streets, you can get wonderful sideviews of other moving cars, or people getting on and off. In the background, tbe view stretches all the way downtown, and beyond to the towers of the Bay Bridge. It’s a fantastic mixture of visual elements.”

According to Gibson, time of day is important for this shot. It’s best with good frontal lighting, so make sure the sun is behind you.

Fisherman’s Wharf… The Fabled Dock of the Bay

The pungent aroma of fresh seafood and the irrepressible pulse of seafaring commerce beckon us to discover the sights and sounds of the incomparable Fisherman’s Wharf. The Wharf draws in 87 percent of San Francisco’s visitors-unquestionably its perennial catch of the day. Enjoy the teeming humanity right along with the succulent crab, shrimp and fresh sourdough, as you stroll through the waterfront marketplace. But calm tranquillity is always as near as the water’s edge, where colorful fishing boats punctuate the horizon.

Docked fishing boats

“The vantage point of this shot is from the pier, approximately eight feet above the water. This tight close up shot emphasizes the repetitive pattern of the fishing vessels. Use a slow shutter speed and a tripod or pier railing to prevent camera movement and to get a clear sharp-focused shot,” advises Gibson.

Golden Gate Bridge - San Francisco

Golden Gate Bridge – San Francisco

24 in. x 36 in.

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Golden Gate Bridge… Gates of Heaven

“I don’t know who decided to paint it orange, but God bless them,” declared the author Susan Cheever, speaking of the Golden Gate Bridge. And whether it provides your doorway into the great city or your conduit to the neighborly delights of Sausalito and Marin County, the sight of its 4,200 foot expanse at sunset is not one you’re likely to forget. But bring your camera just in case.

From north of the Bridge-Marin headlands road

“Drive across the bridge and get on the elevated road that goes along the Marin headlands shoreline,” says Gibson. “As you drive west along that road, looking back you can find a spot on the road where you align the north pair of towers of the Golden Gate Bridge with downtown San Francisco-it’s a great shot with the bridge in the foreground and the skyline behind it. You can get a detail of the Bridge tower with the Bank of America and the Transamerica Pyramid behind it. It’s a very popular shot for people who want both elements.”

When conversing with Mark Gibson about shooting San Francisco, his excited reverence is irrepressible. “Visually, this is an incredibly rich place. There is such variety, with the hills and the water, the bridges and the architecture. And the lighting is phenomenal-fog, clouds and clear blue skies in rapid succession. There’s always another perspective. How could anyone get tired of it?” Here are a few tips for shooting in San Francisco:

Don’t let San Francisco’s trademark fog make you camera-shy. It can add a dramatic mood to your shots, but use a fast film for clarity. When photographing a moving cable car-or from a moving cable car-be sure you’re holding the camera steady and press the shutter release gently.

Here on the Marina Yacht Harbor jetty at the foot of Baker Street, our feathered friend offers a slightly different angle of a familiar landmark: the majestic Golden Gate Bridge.

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Angelina Jolie talks her directorial debut

Angelina JolieWhat Angelina Jolie is focused on are new career endeavors — writing and directing — both of which she says she fell into by accident. She talked Vanity Fair magazine on directorial debut

It was a bout with the flu that led her to write the script that’s now her latest film, “In the Land of Blood and Honey,” a love story set during the Bosnian Civil War. “I had to be quarantined from the children for two days. I was in the attic of a house in France. I was isolated, pacing. I don’t watch TV and I wasn’t reading anything. So I started writing,” she explains.

And what was Brad’s feedback after she gave him the script to read on a trip? Well, it could have been worse. “He called and said, ‘You know, honey, it’s not that bad.’”

As for becoming the film’s director, Jolie says she simply didn’t trust handing off the job. “I’ve never felt more exposed,” she says of her screenwriting and directorial endeavors. “My whole career, I’ve hidden behind other people’s words. Now it’s me talking. You feel ridiculous when you get something wrong.”

Though Jolie jokes about the fact Brad thinks that — with her new experience under her belt — she’s going to be a “nightmare” when it comes to dealing with directors from now on, she also shares how helpful he’s been throughout the project. “He’d come in and say what he liked or what he didn’t understand. Like any woman, I would listen to most of it and fight a few things,” she admits. “He’s been so supportive. But it’s hard to separate the person that loves you from the critic, so I don’t think hes a fair judge.”

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Conan the Barbarian shooting locations in Bulgaria

Conan the Barbarian

With the release of Lionsgate Film’s Conan the Barbarian, the world’s most famous barbarian returns to the big screen, continuing a pop culture legacy that has spanned nearly eight decades and inspired generations of artists from the worlds of fiction, comic books, video games, animation, and film and television. First introduced in 1932 in a series of short stories by pulp fiction writer Robert E. Howard, Conan the Barbarian helped establish the burgeoning genre known as sword and sorcery, pre-dating the work of fantasy master J.R.R. Tolkien by twenty years. Since then, he has become a bona fide cultural icon, capturing the public imagination as an idealized vision of unbridled masculinity, a tough, imperturbable hero with no allegiances and the ability to overcome impossible odds with brute strength and a seasoned warrior’s skill.

Conan the Barbarian was filmed over 12 weeks on locations throughout Bulgaria, and at Nu Boyana Studios’ diverse sets and stages. Production Designer August, and a crew that sometimes numbered 400, created about 60 different sets.

Filming in the elements, whether it was the snow-covered forests at Zlatnite Mostove or the rainy, village battlefields at Bistrica, required a cinematographer who could make the most out of existing light situations. “Much of our lighting approach was based on weather conditions, on locations, on colors that were available,” says director of photography Thomas Kloss, who works regularly with Nispel.

Peopling the world of Conan the Barbarian with visually memorable characters was one of Nispel’s priorities during production, so he relied heavily on the talents of his design team, comprised of costume designer Wendy Partridge, hair stylist Aldo Signoretti, and makeup effects experts Scott Wheeler and Shaun Smith.

“Marcus was very open to our input in creating the characters, not just their look,” says Wheeler. Stephen Lang was cast only one week before shooting so his look was designed through emails between the actor, director and Wheeler. “He came from the plane to the studio, sat in the chair, we did a life cast on his nose and then two days later we did a makeup test.” Khalar’s distinctive vertical scar on his nose eventually became a story element and is established as a fresh face wound in a flashback.

McGowan credits costume designer Wendy Partridge for creating Marique’s goth-punk look. “The costumes were feats of engineering, and it took two people to get me in and out of almost every one of them,” says McGowan. “All of them except for one I could not sit in, so at lunch I would just kind of stand in my trailer because I didn’t want to hurt them. They were all leather and had so many different pieces.”

Wanting to create a specialized brand of action for Conan the Barbarian, Lerner and Weldon brought in Second Unit director and stunt coordinator David Leitch, stunt coordinator Noon Orsatti, and select members of the action design company, 87eleven, to choreograph and facilitate the fight scenes. Says Leitch, “We tried to update the sword fighting from the original film and make it more multiple-attacker, a little more active, more modern, and step up the energy. The old Conan was one block, one hit. This Conan takes on a lot more all at once.”

Conan the Barbarian

Keeping a tight schedule at the studio in Bulgaria, the stunt team often had to teach actors the action sequences on the same day they were shot. “We landed on a gold mine with Jason Momoa,” reports Noon. “He has all the talent in the world and he looks spectacular with a sword. We were also excited to have a lot of really good action actors come on board, like MMA stars Bob Sapp and Nathan Jones, to play the parts of Khalar Zym’s henchman. It allowed us to pull off some big physical action scenes.”

The stunt team also had the constant encouragement of Nispel, who continually sought ways to create innovative action scenes. “Marcus has a need to do this movie in a way that will blow his own mind and so hopefully blow the minds of the viewers,” says Momoa.

“He also has the desire to truly collaborate,” adds Perlman. “To him, it doesn’t matter who has the good idea, whether it’s the actor or him or somebody else. He’s really willing to shift on a dime and incorporate something he hasn’t thought of.”

Though it has been more than twenty-five years since Conan’s last appearance on screen, Nispel believes this is a particularly opportune time to be revisiting the iconic hero. “We live in a very artificial world,” says the director. “We spend most of our day in front of computers, borrowing knowledge, borrowing real experiences. Conan gets you into a world where you still get dirt under your fingernails and where you don’t have to ask everybody for permission. You can go about things in a more primal way.”

“People are drawn to the kind of passion that Conan has, about making things right in the world and fighting for what you believe in,” Lerner says. “CONAN THE BARBARIAN gives people the opportunity to live out those impulses in a fantastical, mythical place.”

Directed by: Marcus Nispel
Starring: Jason Momoa, Rose McGowan, Rachel Nichols, Nathan Jones, Stephen Lang, Laila Rouass, Ron Perlman
Screenplay by: Thomas Dean Donnelly, Joshua Oppenheimer
MPAA Rating: R for strong bloody violence, some sexuality and nudity.
Studio: Lionsgate Films
Release Date: August 19th, 2011

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The Arrival of Elvis Presley

Elvis Presley Art Print

Elvis Presley Art Print

12 in. x 16 in.

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“Man, when I was nine, I couldn’t imagine anyone not wanting to be Elvis Presley,” Springsteen remembers.

The first two Elvis Presley albums, both on RCA in 1956, neatly illustrate the basic dichotomy: Elvis Presley shows him onstage, eyes shut and mouth wide open, with his guitar thrust in the air, while Elvis has him seated in a staged pose, strumming his guitar. Here is the musician, they seem to say, and here are his musical instruments, his primary materials: his voice and his guitar.

In the 1960 songs in which women are part of the continuing love relationship, the male is clearly the dominant figure. Elvis Presley in “It’s Now or Never” best exemplifies this theme:

It’s now or never.
Come hold me tight.
Kiss me, my darling.
Be mine tonight.
Tomorrow will be too late.
It’s now or never.
My love won’t wait.

Alan Freed and others only played original black rhythm & blues /r ock’n’ roll, but most disk jockeys gave the cover version for more exposure, usually omitting to mention the original. Covers by leading white perforrners such as Pat Boone consistently outsold the originals over the country as a whole. To same people only the original black music had the necessary connotations of non-conforrnity, but for many middle-class teenagers clean-living Pat Boone’s perfectly enunciated version of Little Richard’s Long Tall Sally offered enough assertiveness without too much risk of overstepping the social and moral mark.

The lyrics of Sh-Boom were unaltered in the Crew Cuts’ cover version, but that was an exception; in many cases wholesale changes were made to cope with lyrics of unaccustomed frankness and innuendo. The music of the covers was also often toned down. These changes, undertaken partly to avoid incurring society’s wrath, partly to ensure good sales, could not disguise the fact that penetration of the mainstream by black and black-derived approaches was taking another, decisive step. The interplay between the offbeat and heavy, insistent rhythm were different from anything the white popular music scene had heard before. In introdueing new elements, mostly derived from the blues, cover versions unwittingly helped to prepare a wider audience for the music that foilowed.

The cover version remained the basis of the white rock’n’ roll of Bill Haley, Elvis Presley and others, but a different approach can be detected between these and the version of the Pat Boone school. In place of the attempt to divert rhythm & blues into more broadly acceptable channels of sound, the country-bred musicians and their producers sought to develop a new style, based on a dynamic encounter between black and white.

Notice that Blood Sweat and Tears and the Ides of March have names that come at the end of a quotation, so that to get it you have to know the first part as well. Since almost all American kids have to read Julius Caesar in high school, that Shakespearean tag is especially indicative. Furthermore, these names as well as that of Big Brother promise something threatening. Music was so loud and so heavy that it did have an aggressive quality—so that it is no surprise that in 1969 a group formed that called itself War.

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Popular Culture: The Rise of Hollywood

"Movie Date," Saturday Evening Post Cover, April 4, 1942

“Movie Date,” Saturday Evening Post Cover, April 4, 1942
Douglas Crockwell
9 in. x 12 in.

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The Rise of Hollywood

The rise of Hollywood signaled the arrival of America’s urban-industrial age, a period when traditional values and established notions of family and community, of the social and political order, and of individual freedom and initiative were radically transformed. Hollywood movies were among the first and were certainly the most widespread and accessible manifestations of an emergent “mass culture” which brought with it new forms of cultural expression.

Businessmen began to realize the financial potential for movies. While movies were first shown as part of other forms of entertainment, they soon became the featured attraction themselves. By 1905 the first nickelodeon had opened in Pittsburgh, where customers each paid a nickel to see a full program of a half dozen short films. The opening of theaters completed the elements necessary for an industry: product, technology, producer, purchaser, and distributor. As the United States became an increasingly child-centered culture, concern grew about the moral effects of popular culture on the young.

This was not simply a matter of its content: many educationalists shared philosopher Charles Horton Coolef’s disquiet about its “expressive” function in stimulating emotions. The “rapid and multitudinous flow of personal images, sentiments, and impulses”, he feared, produced “an overexcitation which weakens or breaks down character”.

One man who learned his trade from Griffith was Mack Sennett. Sennett worked for Griffith for a few years as a director and writer, but his interests were more in comedy than in melodrama. In 1912 he broke away and began to work for an independent company, Keystone. Here he learned to merge the methods of stage slapstick comedy with the techniques of film; the results were the Keystone Cops, Ben Turpin, and Charlie Chaplin. Sennett’s films used only the barest plot outline as a frame for comic gags that were improvised and shot quickly.

From the Sennett method, Charlie Chaplin developed his own technique and character. He began making shorts under the direction of Sennett, but in 1915 he left and joined with Essenay which agreed to let him write and direct his own films at an unprecedented salary. Here he fleshed out his tramp character; one of his first films for Essenay was The Tramp (1915). He continued making films that combined his own comic sense and acrobatic movements with social commentary and along with Mary Pickford became one of the first “stars.”

Later he made features, such as The Gold Rush (1925) and Modern Times (1936). Sennett and Chaplin began a period of great film comedy. Buster Keaton combined a deadpan look with remarkable physical ability and timing. He too began making shorts, but soon was directing and starring in features, such as The General (1926). Harold Lloyd ( The Freshman, 1925) and Harry Langdon ( The Strong Man, 1926) also created comic characters that demonstrated their individuality and imagination.

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Popular Culture: Discovering the Teenagers

"Double Trouble for Willie Gillis" Saturday Evening Post Cover, September 5,1942

“Double Trouble for Willie Gillis” Saturday Evening Post Cover, September 5,1942
Norman Rockwell
9 in. x 12 in.

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Until 1950 the term teenagers had never before been coined. The word “teenage” had first appeared in the popular press in the 1920s, but the idea that there was a time of life between childhood and adulthood that could be isolated, and that had its own peculiar characteristics, belongs largely to the 1950s. Children were known as girls and boys were known as youths once they displayed signs of puberty. Then young people were grown up at 18 and fully adult legally at 21 when they often married and set up a home of their own, even if it was a rented room.

The long-established belief had been that people remained children until they suddenly became adults; this conviction lost its hold partly because of social changes, partly as a result of the flourishing postwar consumer economy.

What has been called the “self-conscious subculture” of the young developed during the 1920s and 1930s as a largely urban white middle-class response to the increasing leisure opportunities afforded by changing social attitudes. After World War II the extra years spent in education both broadened the base of the group and gave it a clearer sense of identity. The economy started booming and families experienced a great deal of economic power freedom and independence, including teenagers.

At the same time, teenagers in work (many of them working-class) found that increases in spending power and in leisure time enabled them to move to a position where they could both assert their independenee and be courted by leading representatives of entrepreneurial America. Ironically, while teenagers were more open than ever before to market influences, they were frequently hostile to the adult culture of which the market was a part.

Teenagers were also becoming more independent in the type of music they preferred to listen to, no more listening to what their parents liked, teens flocked to the new music of the decade, which was rock and roll. Even though teens were able to purchase rock and roll records because they were receiving extra spending money, their parents were opposed to rock and roll music, they despised it, and thought of it as corrupting their children.

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